Kenyan Gardening 101

Ahhhh, the pleasures of gardening … and who wouldn’t be impressed in a country where there is no frost, warm temperatures all year and regular storms or rainy periods to keep everything watered.

I must admit that the prospect of growing tropical plants, and not having to nurse them through the first few winters is very appealing. Yes, once again, I know I will only be here for one year, and there is no winter anyway. The pleasure, in this case, will not be seeing the trees flower and fruit, but nurturing them to some degree of maturity in the first 10 months - and plants here grow quickly!

Around the district there is a cornucopia (I have always wanted to use that word in a sentence) of horticultural delights. Produce is prevalent in the market and, although the skins are often marked, inside the fruit is perfect. Tropical fruit-wise there are pineapples, sugar cane, guavas, avocados, bananas, sapotes (look it up!), mangoes, paw paws, and probably a few others I have forgotten. Oh yes, we bought something like a tamarillo and were assured that they were ‘very good’. These were shoved in the window as we negotiated a speed bump on the main road between Eldoret and Kamukuywe. EVERYONE stops in the middle of the highway to buy fruit … this is Kenya.

 

So this fruit was about the size of a plum but the shape of an egg. The skin was very thin and appeared inedible. Underneath was a yellow flesh that looked very edible. We tried the flesh and was taken aback by its bitterness. Kenyans eat these, we reasoned, so maybe we should give it another try. No, after bravely trying again they were just too bitter for us to eat.

What to do with a bag of bitter tamarillo-like fruit? Well if Kenyans like them, offer them to Kenyans. Along to the staffroom they went, along with some oranges and bananas (I like to treat the staff during our professional development sessions, it makes them less likely to stay away!).

The first taker was watched by us white folk with great excitement. She picked up the fruit, cut it in half and scooped out the seeds in the centre. “Mmmm, tastes just like passionfruit” she said.

Nut-wise, we have bought ground nuts (small peanuts), macadamias and cashews.

The macadamias are an interesting story. We had heard that they had been introduced to Kenya, mostly being grown on the larger agribusiness farms. At nurseries we had inquired, but without success. Then, not more than a week ago, we were driving home from market and slowing to negotiate a bumpy section in the road. In true Kenyan style, a hand reaches in the window and a voice asks if we would like to buy some nuts. Upon closer examination we realise that they are macadamias. Our vendor not only sells the nuts, he grows them, and he has plants for sale. I agree to buy three seedlings at a price of 200 shillings ($2.50) each. Two days later, in true Kenyan style he turns up with four trees and no change. So, in true muzungu style, I pay him 1000 shillings for 4 trees plus a large bag of macadamias. Desleigh, being a Queenslander by birth, is particularly delighted to see the “bobble nuts”.

Climatic conditions may be good for plants and trees, but there is a hazard at this school that I have never encountered before. That hazard is comprised of seven cows, four goats, four sheep and a fluctuating number of hens and roosters.

These animals eat anything and everything. What the cows leave, the goats eat. What they don’t want, the chickens finish off. This is nature’s way, but makes it very difficult to keep seedlings alive. Hence, around the school plants have been protected, by large, ugly wooden structures that deter herbivores. Initially, I thought this was over-kill but now I am a convert and recognise that desperate measures are needed to keep out the voracious enemy.

 

 I had already planted four Australian natives – two melaleucas and two callistemon. All gone within three days. My sticks and plastic bag protection was no challenge for the four-legged hordes.

Planted a healthy young avocado seedling – somehow a goat got underneath the barrier and stripped it clean.

My descriptions of the cattle have been rather scathing, and so I must admit there is one advantage of having them around. Never before have I been able to dig a hole, remove the weeds, walk 5 metres and pick up a sun-dried cowpat to fertilise the new home for my plant. Fortunately, what goes in one end comes out the other. The cycle of nature assists again.

Kitale is our destination for groceries and hard-to-get items. Actually in a Western Kenyan village, most things are hard to get. I hatched a plan to use Western know-how to protect my babies; star posts and chicken wire. The trip to Kitale was the first step in my plan to win the range war. However, after describing a ‘star post’ to three or four hardware shop owners (all Indians I may add), I came to the conclusion that Kenyans use wood for such things as metal is too expensive. Star posts do not exist in Kenya. This is a shame because I think there would be a huge market if they could be provided at the right price.

To cut this story a little shorter, I was able to buy some angle bar that came in 20 foot lengths. Not as strong or as thick as star posts but good enough. Luckily, most shops have an excess of workers (“disguised unemployment” we called it in Economics) so the metal was cut into 4 foot lengths at no extra cost. Chicken wire, like corrugated iron, is plentiful but of very poor quality.

And so, a few hours of labour and a few bleeding fingers later (have you ever worked with light-gauge chicken wire?) my higher-tech barriers are complete. The only question now is; “will they have the tops eaten off them when they reach a height of three feet?” At least, that shouldn’t be my worry.

Just a thought; they grow coffee in Kenya don’t they? …Hmmmmm.

Happy gardening.

Valentine's Day

We are feeling very comfortable in the local community. Despite the dark, drab look of most of the businesses, inside the owners are polite and friendly. Des has made friends with Annie, a fruit seller, and also Jacob the butcher (he is the one who, when asked what kind of meat it was, replied "animal"). The owner of the Impala Store now expects us at least once a week to buy a carton (12x500ml packets) of UHT milk.

And so it seemed appropriate that we venture "down town" for Valentine's Day. It's not often you get the chance to take out four lovely ladies, but that was the case this year. Desleigh, Elise, Tabby (our house mate) and Jemima (Tabby's sister, visiting for a few days) drove in style to the Ambassador Hotel for afternoon tea.

Well we didn't actually drive in style. The main road (only road) through the village is being widened and completely renewed. Usually in Kenya they provide some rough side track to skirt the mayhem, but in our village it seems to be "find your own way through the maze". So we headed towards town on the pedestrian path. No access, a pile of dirt had just been dumped in our way. Perhaps we could drive up onto the section of old road that still exists. No, the step up is at least half a metre. So we headed back out of town for about 700 metres, finally finding a crossing from one side of the earthworks to the other. Fortunately on that side of the road it was clear progress into the village.

The ambassador is clearly one of the classiest establishments in town. It has real parquetry tiles on the floor, and three alfresco tables on the front verandah. We park right out front, next to the donkey dray. Inside, the ambience is casual yet business-like. We have missed out on a verandah table but we find somewhere to sit inside and scan the menu. While we are scanning the menu everyone else in the room is scanning us.

 

Drinks first. Fortunately the menu suggests that coffee is available. I am not naive enough to expect anything like an espresso machine, but instant coffee will do. Unfortunately the waitress tells me that there is no coffee. You do not ask why on these occasions. Kenyans are very polite but they don't appreciate conversations that require explanations.

I scan the menu again, noticing that above the drink items is the heading "Beaverages". I am  tempted to ask for a drink for my beaver, but think better of it. Strangely, samosas appear half-way down the Beaverages menu - perhaps for confused Indian beavers!

Although the local Kenyan beer is tempting (yes folks, I know that I dislike beer - but it is cold, wet and hygienic), I decide on a Sprite, after being reassured by the waitress that it will be cold.
The sisters share a Coke, Des and Elise share a Sprite.
There is Tea on the menu. Kenyan tea is white tea with copious amounts of sugar. It is dispensed from a thermos, therefore there is no way that you can get it without sugar.

Now to food. There seem to be two staple meals in cafes in Kenya. Kuku (chicken) and chips is very popular, although the chicken is not what you would call 'plump'.
Whereas we eat potatoes with most things, Kenyans eat Ugali. It is a maize meal loaf cooked in a pot like porridge, and extracted when at a consistency between bread and porridge. It cuts like bread, but has the bland, squishy consistency of porridge.
Apparently you can eat ugali with anything, and Kenyans mostly do. We don't.

It seems to be a day for sharing. The sisters share a plate of chips and so do Desleigh and Elise. I choose the scoane, which I assume is a scone.
The chips are devoured because they are junk food and we have precious little of that. They are fried in cooking oil of some variety, but they throw in too many and they come out cooked but pale and limp. I am told that tomato sauce helps.
Can you get a picture of two Adelaide sisters, giggling together while they consume their coke and fried chips (what would their mother say?).

My scoane arrives. It is dry but we expect that with all pastry and cakes in Kenya. There is not even butter to go on the scoane. Strangely, she has provided a fork. Minutes later Desleigh gestures for me to look in a certain direction. There is a Kenyan man in a suit who has also chosen the scoane. He has it on a fork and is eating it like a toffee apple. You live and learn.

Fun and feasting over, we head for the door, stopping of course to pay the waitress.
The bill comes to 365 shillings. I hand over two 200 shilling notes and reject the change. What a big spender I am ... And are the girls impressed? I have just spent, including tip, the equivalent of $Aus5.10 .

Official correction!

The title of my blog is a little misleading.

I am teaching, but the organisers have been very kind and given me only three Geography classes - so this is only nine lessons per week. Also, I take bible studies after lunch every third week (so does Des).

So, how is the rest of the week spent?

After arriving with a large to-do list, I have prioritised five tasks. These are:

1. Teacher training and development

I hope to meet with all teachers on two Wednesdays out of three. We will discuss teaching strategies and school organisation. Also, I want to get some team teaching going where we observe each other's lessons. I have brought a couple of text books on CD, and the staff is very interested. Most Kenyan text books have no coloured pictures. If anyone has a secondary text with a CD attached, please copy the CD onto your hard drive and send it to me as an email attachment (moggies59@outlook.com). I already have Biology Year 12 and Stages 4-5 of Geography.

2. Testing English comprehension and organising remedial work.

I suspect that the students' verbal English is far better than their written comprehension. We will start by testing all of Form 1 and determining their level of English comprehension on a standardised test (Western Australian TORCH test). Work out the acronym for yourself.

Desleigh will work with (hopefully withdraw) students who need extra help. We are also going to train Sammy to continue this work in future years. If Form 1 shows deficiencies, then we will also test Form two and possibly three.

3. Computer technology

I have brought 12 laptops from Kotara High and want to train teachers in word processing, spreadsheets for record keeping, and PowerPoint for classroom presentations. Use of the data projector is also on the list. At the weekend in Nairobi I purchased a refurbished photocopier. Previously all copying was done on a cheap printer-scanner that didn't even double-side. Internet would be great, but this is a cost that the school cannot afford at the moment. I estimate that even light use would cost about $40-50 per week.

4. Documenting school procedures and timetables

The school hierarchy has developed a policy booklet for 2014, which is great. However, the school needs more. Policies and plans are in people's heads, not down on paper. There is little forward-planning and communication of upcoming events. I hope to prepare a Teachers' Manual that sets out procedures, structures, timetables and useful information (particularly useful for new teachers).

5. Environmental education

There are many basic changes needed here that will require a cultural shift. For example:

   - plastic should not be burnt. We have just dug our second pit for the disposal of plastic (somehow the other one was filled with all sorts of rubbish). We want to look into the possibility of sending sorted rubbish to a recycler, if such a thing exists this far from Nairobi.

 

  - litter should not be regarded as 'normal'. One student wrote to her sponsor explaining that 'Mister Greg' was doing a good job of keeping the grounds tidy! Perhaps they think I am the general assistant.

   - cleaning of rooms needs to be a priority. There is a roster, but it has not been followed well enough. Each classroom now has two garbage bins, a broom and a dustpan.

 6. Other things

There are also fixit jobs. Oh how I wish I was more practical! Desks and chairs need mending, and much of the plumbing leaves a lot to be desired. Another coat of paint is also needed throughout the interior of our house.

Desleigh is caring for our vegetable patch. She was very upset when a cow got in and ate EVERY SINGLE CABBAGE. Goats and birds have also been on her hit list.

Landscaping is another priority. The house needs a few fruit or nut trees (avocados grow brilliantly, and macadamias have been introduced to Kenya).

Now that there is a girl's dormitory about 20 metres from the house, we need a hedge to screen out the sight and sounds of the girls. I like the idea of a little privacy.

One of us Aussies speaks at assemblies and gatherings at least every 2-3 days. Very little warning is given, but the students are very generous with their applause.

Finally, we take every chance we can to buy things for the school when we are in large towns and cities. There are so many things that the school lacks. Sometimes we spend our own money, but mostly we use money that has been donated by you kind folk back in Australia. I can assure you that improvements are happening and the teachers and staff are very grateful (the principal is effusive with his thanks, and shakes our hand for a very long time).

So, life is busy but rewarding. Progress is slow, but we will get there. If you can help in any way, please do so.

Post you later,

Greg.

Kenyan Road Rules

Just arrived back from a weekend trip to Nairobi. What made this trip different was that I drove all of the way. I'm guessing that it is about 350 km each way, but the round trip takes 14 hours!

Nairobi has 4 million people and at least 20 million cars (perhaps a slight exaggeration). It does, however, seem like they all want to get around the same roundabout as you.

Here are the ACTUAL road rules observed on the trip:

1. If it is not clear to overtake, do it anyway. The car coming in the opposite direction will most likely slow down or get off the road.

2. If it is not clear to overtake and there is a large vehicle coming, pass on the left.

3. If you are riding a motor bike, ignore all rules and go wherever you like. This particularly applies to red traffic lights - there is no reason why you should stop.

4. If the roundabout is full, make a third lane and push in anyway. This effectively blocks the whole road and reduces the chance of a high impact collision.

5. If you are a semi-trailer driver, do not travel faster than 40 kph - your wheel might fall off or your brakes might fail.

6. Semi-trailer drivers are never allowed to veer to the left of the road and allow others to pass.

7. If you are driving a BMW or a Mercedes you must be a government official - do what you like, we worship and adore you.

8. Speed bumps are not to be painted or signs erected to indicate their position. We want to test your brakes and suspension at each one.

9. When there is an overtaking lane going up a hill, don't expect that vehicles coming down the hill will stay out of it. In fact, assume that they have MORE right to the lane than you.

10. Bicycle riders must at all times avoid potholes, irrespective of the proximity or number of vehicles on the road.

11. The speed of your vehicle is indirectly proportional to the amount of black smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe.

12. When turning or pulling out from the kerb do not, repeat, do not use an indicator.

13. When turning or pulling out from the kerb do not, repeat, do not watch out for oncoming vehicles.

14. Travel is about getting from point A to point B - it doesn't have to be in a straight line. Use the breakdown lane, side tracks, fields, pathways - all are good.

15. If you are a matatu driver (small, private 12-seater bus) ensure that the vehicle is over-loaded. Do not leave your parking spot unless at least two people are hanging out of the door.

16. Matatu drivers are to find every illegal way to overtake you ... and then slow to 20 kph on the hills.

17. Pedestrian crossings are only there to remind us that Kenya once had zebras.

18. If you are overtaking in a place where only an idiot would attempt it ... flash your lights. It might somehow give you more room to squeeze in.

19. At an intersection when attempting a right turn, ensure that you block the road for traffic in all directions.

20. Always remember - a two lane road can fit three cars, two motor bikes, a hand cart and a partridge in a pear tree across the road. If not, you are not driving close enough. Remember, rear-vision mirrors are unnecessary luxuries.

(And some of you think I am making this up!)