Sunday, 25 May 2014

What it's all about!

The kids here in Kenya are really wonderful to be around. Most of you haven't been here so be assured that they are some of the happiest, most unaffected kids you will ever meet. They get up to mischief sometimes but most have a heart of gold. Students are always offering to return my gear to the staffroom, clean the board or carry my chair for me (there is no teacher's chair in the classrooms).

My fondest memories will be of the wide-eyed, friendly boys and girls who, in an instant, can brighten my day.

This is my photographic tribute to them, including some neighbouring kids and various others we have met along the way:

Three of the girls from Form 1 South at the Academy


They all love to have their photos taken, and are good posers!


Students at one of the local primary schools. Things are pretty basic but they enjoy themselves nonetheless.


More happy primary school students














This is a local toddler who is as quiet as a mouse, even when being treated by Tabby for jiggers

Eli is the Head Boy this year, and a lovely guy

Elizabeth from Form 2 North

Some of the girls

Andrew and Joash with one of my very favourite kids (Elise)

Joan - one of the primary school girls who lives at Lela Orphanage

Oliver, Seth and Onesimus
Some of the neighbourhood young'uns
This is Major. A young boy in Taveta who thought wearing someone's glasses upside down was a good laugh!

Simon and Milton (Form 3) clowning around





Who Moved my Ugali?

“Change comes with sacrifice... When you want to make a change you must be prepared to make a sacrifice of escaping the comfort zone!”
                                                                           Israelmore Ayivor (Ghanian author)


I am an impatient person – ask my wife! Although, some of you reading this will know me so well that you do not need to seek her opinion.
At times I try to reason that impatience is a good virtue, but I know it is not.
I will say, however, (be kind to me here) that impatient people at least have the desire for change. They may not go about it the best way, and they may annoy others in the process, but at least they want to make a difference.

The volunteer fieldworker’s guide tells us that Africa is a place where change happens very slowly. We have been prepared for this, but it still is a cause of frustration, and not just for those of us who are impatient.
There are many diverse reasons for this resistance to change. I would humbly submit the following as possible culprits:
-         -  A low level of education for the general populace limits their ability to address change. I will say again, a decent 12 year education is the best preparation that Kenya can provide its children – and this is becoming increasingly possible. A majority of children may not complete high school but the 8-4-4 structure is in place. This is eight years of primary school, four years of high school (mostly for the academically inclined) and four years of university.
-         -  Poverty produces a lack of access to world news and twenty-first century technology. Many Kenyans know little of other cultures and lifestyles. This is not their fault but it limits their scope of thinking.
-         -  The comfort zone theory. When new ideas are suggested a familiar reply is “that’s not how we do it in Kenya”. Again, I attribute this attitude, in part, to an education system that does not value ‘questioning’ or ‘critical thinking’. Students are taught fact after fact. They are tested on this fact all the way through school and get higher marks if the answer is verbatim from the text book. Individual thought is not highly prized with the markers! There is very little questioning, extrapolating or evaluation of the facts presented. For those of you who are educators, Benjamin Bloom would roll over in his grave if he saw the low order of cognitive abilities required to succeed in the Kenyan education system.

You might say though, that is not my place to dictate how or when a culture should “adapt to my Western ideals”. This is very true, but the reality is that change is happening in Kenya – we live in a global community (sorry for the cliché). My goal is not to dictate the change, my goal is to have locals consider and be capable of implementing change if they so desire.
Another argument is that the culture is rich and diverse and we should not be changing it. Most Kenyans are subsistence farmers … there is death when famine strikes. Many Kenyans have a worrying lack of knowledge about aids, health care, sexually transmitted diseases and peaceful conflict resolution. It is a myth that traditional societies have everything they need.
Two examples of change to consider:
1. Kenyan society has long had a habit of disposing of rubbish by tossing it aside immediately after use. This was fine in the days when all waste was biodegradable. It decayed back into the soil or was quickly eaten by a passing sheep or cow. Today Kenya has a new-found love affair with plastic bags. Everything is sold in a plastic bag. Even street sellers will put their bucket of fruit in a plastic bag before handing it over. Even if you ask them not to, they will still insist … it’s all part of the service you know.
As a result, most Kenyan villages and towns are littered with plastic. It blows up the street, becomes embedded in the ground and looks extremely unsightly. There are few rubbish bins or rubbish collections. Sometimes, people will burn the plastic as a cooking fuel. The toxic fumes from this practise are a real worry.
The point is that sometimes the adoption of one technology necessitates other changes as well. It is no longer good enough to say “we have always done it this way”.

2. Kenya is spending billions on road improvement, not only because of the increase in vehicles, but also because of the rapid increase in the numbers of cheap motor bikes from China. Where thoroughfares were once restricted to pedestrians, cyclists, donkey carts and cows, there are now Toyota Land Cruisers rushing past at great speed. The average pedestrian and cyclist has not developed a sense of awareness on the road. They step out in front of cars and weave around pot holes, putting their lives in danger. A modern transport system necessitates a change in attitudes towards safety on roads. This change is not happening quickly enough, and the road toll is reflecting this fact.

However, there are positives, and this blog is not meant as a criticism of Kenya. It reflects a problem in many of us, myself included. Consider these cases:
Our friend Michael (who was our driver when we arrived) works his job, runs his own farming business and also studies aviation logistics at night. He wants to increase his ability to look after his young family.
Within the school there are teachers like wonderful Musimbe who, in the latter years of his teaching career, is attempting to master Microsoft Word and Excel. I admire him greatly and will miss his friendship and support next year.
At the Agape Academy, innovation is occurring. The transformation of the land into a functioning high school has been amazing, and the impetus has been the sponsors, board members and directors who are willing to step outside that comfort zone. It is surely a blueprint for a successful future.
For some then, the desire for change is obvious. The more this attitude permeates Kenya, the better off everyone will be.

Our lives are like a tree. We consist of leaves and branches and roots, but these things are just the means of obtaining our needs – the fruit. If the fruit stops coming, you need to prune the tree, or add fertilizer. We must change our procedures if they are no longer effective. Like a sunflower, if the sun moves, we must move too.
John 15 – “I am the true vine, and my Father is the gardener. He cuts off every branch in me that bears no fruit, while every branch that does bear fruit he prunes so that it will be even more fruitful”.
Jesus understood the need to change and adapt.

The big message though must be a personal one. In advocating change, one must also be able to change to suit the situation. Dare I say, one needs to be less impatient. This has been a hard lesson for me, but a very valuable one. I am hopeful that this will be evident upon my return to Australia (please remind me of this friends).

We may boast that we readily adopt change. That is probably true, but often we wait and see if others are adopting it first. Few of us are ‘trail-blazers’. All countries need more of them.
If you have a lousy job, do you stick with it or jump out into the unknown and try something new. If you can’t find a job, do you keep complaining or do you go out and improve your qualifications – you can do this at any age these days.
If you are wasting time in front of the TV or the computer, make the decision to seek fulfilment in areas of life that are real and help others. Have you seen this Leunig cartoon?


Too often we can be like that man.

So, in trying to summarise this blog, I think we all need to realise that change is necessary, even if it makes us temporarily uncomfortable. I believe that the inertia for change in Africa is a microcosm of people in general. Very few of us want to “sacrifice the comfort zone” of daily rituals. We take comfort in those things that are continuities in our life. They provide us with stability and a sense of place. To a large degree there is nothing wrong with this. However we must not over-look the change that will lead to lasting improvement.

A really good book was written about change about 15 years ago. It is called “Who Moved My Cheese” by Dr Spencer Johnson. It is only about 50 pages long, but if that is too much, there is a very good summary on Wikipedia.

My final thought is from Haw, a character in the book:      
                                                   “Change! Move with the cheese”.

Saturday, 17 May 2014

Yoo Hoo Uhuru!

Subtitle: The Day the President Came to Town

We had been warned. On assembly the day before the students were told that President Uhuru Kenyatta would be arriving in town, but under no circumstances were they allowed to leave the school to view the spectacle (yeah, right!!).

So, on Saturday morning Des and I decided to walk to the market (2 km each way) to get some photos printed (15 shillings each on an Epson printer at the local photocopying, printing and laminating shop). She also likes to buy the Saturday “Daily Nation” which has a high level of journalism and a very good farming lift-out called “Seeds of Gold”.

About 600 metres from the academy is the local primary/high school. Their field was the location for the great man’s arrival by helicopter. There were hundreds of people gathered around, on the opposite side of the school from where we were passing.


As we approached the market we noticed that there was a very prominent police presence – like about two every 20 metres along the road. Rather than carrying the traditional rifle (which is intimidating enough), these police had machine guns. Trucks rumbled past, the back full of heat-packing troopers. Yes, this was not a normal day in Kamukuywe.


Many shops were closed and the traditional street sellers conspicuous by their absence. Today was not a day for commerce, it was a day to dress in your best clothes and clamour to get a glimpse of the President. One friend of ours also suggested that many people from the interior had never seen a helicopter.
Fortunately our photo shop was open. Frederick is the efficient proprietor and within 15 minutes I had my photos. Exiting the shop we noticed that no one was crossing the road. Police had formed a line along the road and all pedestrian traffic had been halted. Moments later the convoy started – two rows filling the road with Mercedes, Toyota Prados, and large SUV’s of uncertain origin. Interestingly, they were all black; what is it about official convoys that necessitates black cars? Next past was a black SUV with a man hanging off the side. I wondered whether he had been watching too many American movies. Nevertheless this seemed to be a signal that the man himself was about to pass by. Sure enough, three or four cars later another black SUV motored past with Uhuru in the passenger seat. Smiling widely and waving constantly, for a second he seemed to look in our direction. Des fumbled for the iphone to take a picture, but alas, the moment had passed.

The road cleared, and we were allowed to cross. As we walked back towards the centre of the market we noticed a huge crowd of people walking from the school on one side of town, towards the Governor’s house, on the other side (as this was where the President was heading for an official function). The procession must have resembled the exodus of the Israelites from Egypt – a constant stream of people, determined to reach the promised land. Crafty locals chose to hire a motor bike to beat the crowds, so the road now became filled with the sound of the two-stroke menace. These drivers (who I am sure have no licenses) ignore all road rules, preferring to take the closest route between point A and point B.
Once out of the market our walk back to the academy was fairly easy. Still there were many people waiting near the helicopters, preparing for the President’s return.


It was all too exciting for us muzungus. We went back to our house and read the paper.

Friday, 9 May 2014

What about Des?

A number of people have asked about Des' activities at the school. She has certainly not had much spare time. I asked her to write about her typical day, but she wanted me to do it. So here goes ... Desleigh Mogg at the Agape in Action Academy.


I know I am biased, but life here would be very difficult without Des. She is always the voice of reason and the calm, sensible one! She wants to look after the house and, as you would expect, has it looking spic and span. She also prepares some fantastic meals. She very much misses all of you back in Australia, but is carrying out a very valuable role at the school.

 There is a real shortage of green vegetables in the marketplace so Des has become the backyard gardener, although a garden is called a 'shamba' in Swahili.

There have been set-backs with invading cows, but things are looking very green and lush now.

Our food scraps get buried in the garden - giving the locals a lesson in sustainable agriculture.

Early in the year we tested Form 1 in regards to English comprehension. There were some very poor results. 36 of the students were chosen for some one-on-one tuition. Sammy, Des and Myself (plus Elise when she was here) share the load.
Des is presently working with 12 students, seeing them once each week and improving their understanding of English.
We have just purchased an ipad so that we can use learning apps with the students - they love them!

Kamukuywe has a large number of widows. The local church has a widow's program to assist them with basic needs like clothing and seeds for planting.
Des has given talks to these ladies and helped distribute gifts.
They are very grateful for the assistance they receive, and celebrate with spontaneous dancing!





This year the student population has increased by about 40%.
There are over 100 female boarders in new quarters, and the school now has a house mother in residence.
Des has been busy obtaining the necessary items for the house mother's accommodation; linen, appliances, cleaning equipment, etc (some of these things have been paid for out of your donations - thank you).

She has also been instrumental in developing a set of guidelines for the house mother to use.

In the picture you can see Des explaining to one of the local furniture makers exactly what she wants. A dining table and chairs, lounge suite and two dressers have now been acquired. Leah (the house mother) is very impressed with her new home.





Des has visited local primary schools and the Lela orphanage to see how the students are progressing. One task has been to interview staff and students and send the details back to Agape in Action in Canada.
Some amazing stories have emerged - keep an eye on the website at:
          agapeinaction.com
Some of the stories should be appearing shortly.



With an outgoing, friendly personality Des has enjoyed mingling with the students. She enjoys chatting to them after school, sharing stories, and tending to their burns, scratches and ailments.
Our house has a very large first aid cupboard which gets opened frequently. She has done a wonderful job of labelling and storing all of the pills, potions and bandages.



On Tuesday and Thursday afternoons between 4:15 and 5:00 students attend an interest session of their choice. Des helps out with the art group; drawing with them and making sure that their art supplies are available.
This is Des with one of her favourite students. Newton is one of the keenest artists in the school. He is also very astute and can appreciate our Western sense of humour.



Des works at Hunter Sports High in Newcastle. She has kept in contact with them. One teacher has her class writing letters to students at the school.
Des has also arranged for sporting equipment to be donated.
In the picture Des is presenting netball bibs to the coach. They were sent over by HSHS.





There are other jobs that I have forgotten to mention like covering books, making up the pays each month for the school staff, and mending the student's clothes when the seams fall apart.

Basically Des is always in the middle of things, helping wherever possible and supporting me incredibly well. Kenya was my 'dream' but it would have been a nightmare without Des.

Tuesday, 6 May 2014

Zanzibar - Spices

Zanzibar, I'm sure, will grow anything tropical. This is the wet season and the whole island is green and lush. It has inherited many tropical fruits and spices from other countries, and they thrive in the climate. Interestingly, the government will not allow any chemical pesticides or herbicides to be used, so everything is organically grown. This is in stark contrast to other countries that produce similar products.

A spice tour on the island takes you to a farm that produces a wide variety of common ingredients that many of us have never seen growing. The farm is more like a forest - companion planting and an undrgrowth with taller trees above. Chillies are grown, then the powder scattered around the commercial crops to deter the snails, bush babies and monkeys.

Spices were mostly introduced from India, South America and the Spice Islands (Indonesia). They became very important to the economy of Zanzibar after slavery was banned.

So here is our tutorial on the spices of Zanzibar:

 

This is TURMERIC. The plant is like a small palm. The root is cut open to reveal the brilliant orange colour.




VANILLA - It sounds so lovely, but the vine is a parasite. It grows on a host tree and takes the nutrients from the tree. It is grown on a tree with no commercial value. You can see where the vine is beginning to strangle the host. Vanilla beans are picked after they have turned black and dried out.


This is CARDAMOM. The bamboo-like plant puts out roots above the ground. Some contain flowers and some contain the seed.

Not really a spice, this is CACAO. It is new to Zanzibar but there is hope for a chocolate industry in the future.

Not a spice either, but these farms also produce a variety of fruits. This is STARFRUIT, growing on a tree about 4 m tall.















This is a LIPSTICK FRUIT. It has another name but I can't remember it.
It is used in red curries and tandoori.
The seed has red hairs (see below). When opened, there are dozens of small seeds as soft as wet chalk. One touch and they turn to powder.
Indians use them to put the red mark on their forehead.
Zanzibarian women use it as a lipstick.
 

This is the CINNAMON tree. The bark is shaved to provide the spice. It is extremely fragrant when freshly cut off the tree. The bark is the most expensive type of cinnamon. Cinnamon sticks are thin branches off the tree. The leaves can also be used to extract an inferior cinnamon essence.


These are young COFFEE beans.
Zanzibar is not known for its coffee because the best coffee grows at altitude, and Zanzibar is a sand island,
 JACFRUIT - Very small and well short of its time for harvest.

These are small pepper seeds, growing on a fairly large tree. They have not yet ripened and changed colour.
As the pepper ripens it changes colour.
Like capsicum, when you pick it determines the colour - black, red, green and white.

Kenyan shops

Kenya has few large cities.
Nairobi has 3.3 million people, Mombasa has 1.2 million and then you drop down to Kisumu with 400,000.
The country is mostly rural, with a majority of the population living on farms close to small villages with permanent stores and a market place.

In the cities you will find supermarkets comparable to in the West, although meat and dairy products are not very common. One writer has described "Nakumatt Supermarket" as the saviour of Westerners in Kenya. Nakumatt's are supermarkets with other departments upstairs. You can get almost anything at a Nakumatt.


At the other extreme, there are rough wooden stalls selling farm produce.


In-between, and the most interesting group of all, are the small, permanent shops in the towns and villages. They are made out of concrete or rendered brickor iron and seldom get a lick of paint. These shops often seem uninviting to the foreigner, and yet the occupants are usually friendly, with a reasonably good grasp of English. We are learning that Kamukuywe has a much larger range of goods than we first thought.

So, here is my present collection of "favourite shops". I hope you find them interesting:


This is a barber and hairdresser, in Kenya called a "kinyosi".

Elise had her hair braided and turned into 'corn rows'. It took 3 hours and cost 400 shillings ($5).

You will not find any designer surf wear in this Mambo shop.
It is a general store selling Kenyan necessities like plastic containers, mattresses, metal trunks, rope.

Mambo means "what's up?"

I haven't been into this one, but I guarantee you will find a pool shark who will be willing to play you for money!

Frequenting here is definitely a sign of a mis-spent youth.

Another general store. This one is 'self selection' so it allows you to walk inside (many shops have protective barriers at the front. You pass your money through a hatch and the goods are put out through a small swinging door).

You can see the coke crates - alas the drinks will be warm.

Impala is our most frequented shop. It is NOT self selection. We visit most weeks and buy 12x500ml containers of milk. It costs 65 shillings for a 500ml container (75c), i.e. $1.50 per litre.

The preferred kinyosi is on the left of Impala.

This is a bit of a ring-in because it is on the island of Zanzibar - but I liked the honesty of his sign.

Butcher shops are very unique. Get there early in the day because there is no refrigeration. The butcher will hack off whichever piece you ask for (about $4-5 per kilo).

Choma is the Swahili word for 'grilled meat'.

They don't tend to sell chickens because you buy them live and do the deed yourself.

You may have heard this, but Des asked one butcher what kind of meat he had that day and his reply was "animal"!

















This is in one of our neighbouring towns (Kimilili).

The shop looks inviting doesn't it?

Car repairs are interesting. We put the van in to have the front bumper repaired and on the bill was a charge for three tubes of super glue!


Did you know that Wembley Stadium was in Kamukuywe?

I am assuming that they have TV coverage of British football. Most Kenyans are mad about the Premier League.

Again, I have not been inside this one.

M-Pesa means that you can but phone/internet credit. These shops are everywhere in Kenya.

Perhaps the driveway could do with some beautification.

A tourist trap near the Rift Valley lookout. Buy a coke and then pick up a few over-priced trinkets.

"Be comforted with cold Coke",

(This translation may not be great)