Wednesday 19 November 2014

The Otjiwaarongo Paradox

So, we are on the last day of our camping tour in Namibia. The next day we were to fly back to Johannesburg and then on to Cairo via Nairobi.

Sound exciting? Well it didn't happen. You never know what life is going to throw up at you, and our last 48 hours in Africa certainly proved eventful.

We were travelling in our 4x4 truck/coach from the Etosha National Park to Windhoek, the capital of Namibia. We stopped in the largish town of Otjiwaarongo for a 15 minute coffee break. It was here that I committed the cardinal sin of international travel.

I had already started shifting items from my suitcase to my back pack so that it could be taken on the plane as hand luggage. Also, I had been lulled into a false sense of security due to the friendliness and cosmopolitan nature of Namibia. Lastly, the coach had become the de-facto safe storage place - it could be locked but the tent could not.

Therefore, basically everyone jumped off the coach assuming that one of the three staff would stay with it. On this occasion it didn't happen, and three youths broke the lock on the coach, grabbed the first three bags at the back (the door is at the back) and ran down the street. Of course, one of those bags was mine. It included my passport, laptop, iPad, camera, photo back-up and travel and personal documents gathered during the year away. 

What can I say - how stupid was that? After ten months of keeping my documents in my travel pants, I let my guard down in lovely Namibia. It's a lesson to all travellers.

Anyway, after police reports and much consolement from the others, we continued on to Windhoek. 

But here's the thing. At 6 pm last night I was hugging my daughter instead of visiting the pyramids - and I think that where I was just happened to be the better place.

Africa has taught me a great deal. It seems presumptuous to try and sum up life's priorities, but here is my current personal list (not that I have achieved them all!):
1. A loving, supportive partner who you can depend upon at all times (I do have this one).
2. A purpose in life and a hope for the future. For me this has a spiritual answer.
3. The ability to focus on the positive side of life's experiences (queue Monty Python song).
4. The realisation that we are all imperfect, and stumble through each day as best we can.
5. Family, friends and "angels" you meet along the way.
6. The utter importance of helping others whenever you can.
7. Unfortunately, the realisation that (just like ourselves) others aren't always the people they profess to be. When you find genuine, loving, selfless, giving people, keep them close.

Back to the story:
Being in a foreign country without a passport is quite scary. You are literally trapped and cannot solve the problem alone.
Once in Windhoek we contacted the Australian embassy in South Africa and they put us through to the Honourary Australian Consul in Namibia (a part-time position held by Ed Humphries, an Australian businessman living in Namibia).
Ed, ironically, was away in Kenya. His wife Aino (our Namibian "angel") answered the phone, listened to our woes and could not have been more helpful. She made phone calls, liaised with Jo'burg and Canberra, taxied us around, faxed information and found us accommodation.
Initially it looked like two days in Windhoek, permission to travel to Johannesburg, and three days there to organise an emergency Australian passport.
In reality, the British High Commission in Windhoek stepped in and organised a British passport
within 6 hours. Bernice at the BHC also phoned her travel agent and found us flights back to Australia the next day at a good price!

So we are back in Newcastle with our beautiful family. I hope to obtain a replacement passport ASAP and we may still get to complete the European and North American legs of our proposed return trip home.
The thieves have been apprehended and are in a police lock-up. None of the items stolen from the three tourists have, as yet, been recovered. My prayer is that somehow I will be able to get my photographs back. The goods don't mean much but the images of the countries and friends in Africa are truly valuable.

There's so much more I could say, although my thoughts are still a bit scrambled. The bottom line is that in all events there is a positive side if you choose to concentrate on it.

P.S. On our last evening in Namibia we invited Aino and her 6 year old daughter Jessica back to our B&B for afternoon tea. It was like we had known them for years, we spoke about places in Australia that we had both visited and Jessica took a real liking to Des. So much so that by the end of the visit she was constantly hugging and kissing her. Who would have thought that after a disaster like this we would have been blessed with such help, support and friendship. God is truly alive in the people you meet - those who give you help and touch your hearts. These are the precious things in life.





Selah.




Tuesday 11 November 2014

Namib Desert

We have left Cape Town and are travelling on a 12 day camping tour of Namibia.

Namibia is a North-Western neighbour of South Africa. It is a former German colony, but gained self-rule in the 1990's. There is only 2 million people and lots of open space. The cities seem wealthy and have many people of European origin (mostly Dutch and German).

Interestingly, the country is one of the driest in Africa, including the Saharan region. It has a classic West coast climate where cool ocean currents inhibit the creation of rain-bearing winds. Namibia is home to the Namib and Kalahari Deserts.

We left Cape Town on an overcast day. The temperatures were in the low twenties and it was raining on and off. Two days and 400 kms later we are in a baking desert, looking at 300 metre sand dunes and wilting in the 37 degree heat (and this is Spring!).

Take a tour with us through the Namib Desert:

Our tour group - spot the old couple in the picture. Now spot the tour guide.

A shy oryx

Us, at the second largest canyon in the world (Fish River Canyon). I wonder what the third largest is?

Desert plains in the evening sun

Desert lookout

Some of the red sand dunes

Des on top of Dune 45

Just love the effect of wind, sand and sun on nature

Dune 45 - a tough climb

The Sossusflei sand dunes

Dry and barren

Three U.S. tourists taking Movember a little too far!

And this was around noon

The beauty of the desert (the large tree is a quiver tree)

A great location for a camp site

The stony valley floor, surrounded by sand dunes


Another sunset shot (it is a herd of oryx in the foreground)

Despite the oppressive conditions, there is a diverse range of plants, insects, mammals and reptiles. The environment works in balance, except when people interfere with it. God is so talented!

Cape Town

So many people raved about Cape Town to us, that when the opportunity arose for an extended holiday, we chose to check it out.
Cape Town is in the South-West corner of South Africa. The city is a 90 minute drive from the Cape of Good Hope and a three hour drive from the Southern-most tip of Africa, Cape Agulhas.
The latitude is about the same as Sydney, which surprised me. The Spring weather seemed much the same too, although I think the Southerlies are much colder in Cape Town.  The ocean temperature is certainly cooler, not rising above 16 degrees even in Summer.
Coming straight from Kenya we were amazed at the cleanliness of the city, the number of late model European cars, the great roads,  the range of shops and services available, and the cheap prices. Meat is about one third of the price paid in Australia, dining out is about half price, and transport and accommodation is also much cheaper.
The city and surrounds has a wealth of tourist activities (most of which we visited), including;
-          - A cable car to the top of Table Mountain (looming right behind the CBD).
-          - A renovated waterfront area with tourist shops, cafes, food markets, buskers and shopping malls.
-          - A 17th Century fort built by the Dutch.
-          - Street markets selling the traditional African curios.
-          - A day trip to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope (Two Oceans Restaurant is fantastic for lunch;    great view of False Bay, but quite pricey by S.A. standards).
-         -  An excellent botanical gardens - Kirstenbosch.
-          - Extensive wine-growing regions nearby, including Stellenbosch.
-         -  Many quaint country towns – Franszhoek (sp.?), Paarl and Stellenbosch are the pick.
-         -  Lovely beach-side suburbs with great cafes (Camps Bay is the pick here).
-         -  Shark-cage diving (we did not do this one).
-        -  You can even visit the operating theatre where Christian Barnard performed the first heart transplant   it has been turned into a museum.
-         -  An amazing cliff-side drive which links the beach suburbs to the South.
     - Robbin Island tour - where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned.
     
      Cape Town, I’m sure, is not typical of other cities within the country. It is very modern, safe and prosperous. Poorer townships are evident on the city outskirts, but overall there seems to be a relaxed, harmonious feel throughout the whole region. It gets a high recommendation from us as well.

V&A Waterfront

An outlying "township"

Beachside suburb of Camps Bay

Table Mountain from the city


The city from Table Mountain

The cable car (rotating floor so you get a 360 degree view)

From Table Mountain looking South

The suburb of Bo-Kaap (many Malays and Middle-Easterners)

The 17th Century Dutch fort

Two Oceans restaurant - Yummmmm!

Cape Point lighthouse (near Cape of Good Hope)

The actual Cape of Good Hope

Penguin colony at Simon's Town

The scenic coastline drive

Des at the bottom of Africa (where the two oceans meet)

P.S. This is not a paid advertisement for the Cape Town tourist board.

Thursday 30 October 2014

Animal Favourites

This is a compilation of some recent photos of animals. Hope you like them!

Hammerhead storks - very unusual

What you lookin' at?


Flamingos feed with a sweeping motion of the head - algae is taken in with water


A yawn or a yodel? Not sure.

A legless hippo

An eagle hunting on Lake Naivasha


Practicing transcendental meditation?


A roller bird with some biscuit crumbs. Who would feed it that?


A woodpecker that moments before had attacked itself in a car window reflection.



Feeding time at the giraffe centre

What can I say?


White Rhinos

A day to spare in Nakuru on our way to Nairobi, so we decide to go to Nakuru National Park. As residents the park entry fee is very reasonable. The park is world-famous for flamingos, but most have gone elsewhere due to the rising water level. It is also known for its population of about 20 white rhinos.

Access to the lake is severely limited by the flooding of the lake road, and many detours exist. This does not make for good animal viewing. We were not confident of seeing much, except for the ever-present buffalo. However, rule number one of safari-going held true; if you see a collection of mini vans, there will be something interesting to see nearby.

And so it was. Pulling up behind three vans we see a group of five white rhinos, walking slowly, parallel to the road, about 20 metres away. As the number of vans increased, they seemed to veer further from the roadside - perhaps this was coincidence. A few times we moved forward to keep up with their meanderings. Then, the rhinos started to move closer to the road. Some vans had gone by this stage, and we were at the head of the procession. Eventually the five rhinos were no more than 10 metres away from our car. One seemed to take an interest in us, and looked intently in our direction. Surprisingly, they seemed very docile creatures, not at all fazed by our presence. They grazed for a while and then started to gather together into a group, one gently resting its head on another’s rump.
Soon they had settled down very close to each other – like a circle of wagons, seemingly for safety, but I cannot imagine what they would be scared of … take another look at those horns. It looked like snooze time at rhino central so we moved away and left them to their afternoon siesta.

I think we had watched them for at least 25 minutes. It was awesome.

The thought of these mighty beasts becoming extinct saddens me. Rhinos are the most hunted African animal because their horn is considered the most “potent” by Chinese herbalists. Just days ago I read of the death of a Northern white rhino (not similar to the ones at Nakuru). The death brought the world-wide population to five – and scientists are not sure whether there is a breeding male. It looks like another sub-species destined for extinction in the near future.