Dust and Sunsets

We were driving down a bone-shaking dirt road. The trip was from Mombasa on the coast to Taveta, a small outpost on the border with Tanzania. Our expected time of arrival was 3:30 but it was already 5:15. There was still a long way to go. The travel map gave no indication that this road to southern Kenya would be so abominable. Two thirds of the distance on the map had taken us little more than three hours, but the remaining third was a real battle against potholes, wash-aways and dust.

Dust filled the air as the sun began to set, producing an eerie glow. We came over a small rise in the road and then, this ...



The difficulties of the trip were completely forgotten (for a while) as we all marvelled at the vista before us.

Upon reflection, this scene seemed to speak of a recurring truth about Africa, and Kenya in particular; for every difficulty there seems to be a corresponding positive event.

Perhaps this is the way we should look at life in general. Too many people see the dust but don't see the sunset that it produces.

My new Kenyan friend "A" used to live about 100 Kms from Kamukuywe. About 10 years ago his family was caught up in tribal violence during Kenyan election time. A number of his family members were killed, including his father. The family land was taken by rival tribes. "A" became a refugee in his own country. With a wife and 5 young children he had nowhere to go and no land to work.
"A" is a very intelligent man, he had hoped to study at university, but the chance did not eventuate. He eventually found a new home at Kamukuywe. The local church looked after him and provided him and his family with a place to live.
He works as a labourer, earning 400 shillings ($5) per day. Despite these difficulties he is the most positive, happy man I have ever met. "A" has shown me that happiness is not a function of your situation, it is a product of your mind.

In 10 days time our tourist visa elapses for the second time. It is unlikely that it will be renewed again. If our residency permit does not materialise within the next 9 days, we will have to leave the country. This will involve travelling to Nairobi and flying out of East Africa, staying somewhere for a few days and then re-entering Kenya.
This will be an annoying and expensive endeavour, but we want to see the sunset not the dust. After all, is an enforced holiday really a bad thing? Let's look at the positive side and visit somewhere new. Whatever happens it is now a win-win situation. We either get our residency permit or we get an overseas holiday!

Living in a community where you are the only Caucasian is quite difficult. I get embarrassed when elderly people come up and start a conversation, expecting that you can talk Swahili. It's also difficult to refuse the hospitality of someone when they offer unfiltered water or salad items. We know that they are likely to lead to stomach problems. Even worse is the lack of understanding when it comes to customs and traditions - it is so easy to look foolish.
However, it has taught me so much about being part of a minority, and I have never experienced that before. You think that you can adapt and fit in with local culture but in many ways it is very hard. It has been a wonderful life lesson that has to be experienced to be fully understood.

On Thursday we are half-way through our time here in Kenya. There will be lots more dust to cope with, but we are trying to keep searching for the sunsets along the way.

Selah.