Lake Bogoria

“There are not many flamingos around at the moment” says the newspapers. “They have moved South because of rising water levels in the soda lakes” they add. “You are more likely to see big flocks in Tanzania where it is drier” one local said.

Taking a gamble I drove to Lake Bogoria, approximately six hours North-East of the school. Lake Nakuru  (90 minutes further South) has traditionally been the spot for flamingo watching, but they haven’t been there for a number of years. Last year there was a huge number in Lake Bogoria, but word was that they had left for more alkaline pastures, so to speak.

As I approached the main gate I was less than optimistic. I said to the ranger taking my money, “are there many flamingos here at the moment”? “There’s some in the corner of the lake just as you enter the park”, he replied. I didn't ask him to elaborate on ‘some’, I have been here long enough to know that Kenyan directions and explanations are very vague.

Five minutes later I am right next to a flock of flamingos so large that I hesitate to estimate their numbers. They like the shallows, so they are spread out along the edge of the lake, in some places up to 30-40 birds deep. I would guess over one million, but I am not an expert flamingo counter.

This truly was a remarkable sight. There were car tracks right up to the edge of the lake. The birds didn’t seem to mind the car coming close, but when I left the car, they were quick to edge away. So the trick was stay in the car and wish you still had the telephoto lens that Des had taken home for me!

The day was warm, bright and sunny, with hardly a cloud in the sky. The lake itself is long and narrow – steep hills surrounding most of it. I was surprised how picturesque the lake was, as travel guides paint a picture of a dry, semi-desert landscape. There are other animals in the reserve, but I was there for the flamingos.

The gravel road extends down the Western side of the lake for about 25 kilometres. In places the rising water level is obvious because detour roads had been hastily constructed around the flooded lakeside route.

All along the lake there were smaller flocks of flamingos, even some taking time out by themselves. Dotted across the lake were more of them, floating in the deeper water. Often, up in the sky, a single file of birds, like a huge streamer, slowly glided across the lake.

It was difficult to leave them. Their presence was quite mesmerising, not to mention the constant honking, similar but much gentler and more pleasant than a goose’s call.

This is still in the Rift Valley. At one location there are thermal pools, right on the edge of the lake – graphic evidence that there is geothermal activity below. The water from the pools is boiling, and the lake water around it is also very hot. In places you could see bubbles coming from underneath the water.

Still further South there are geysers, but I didn't get that far down. Never mind, I am going to return. This is an awesome place and a slice of nature that I want to see again before I leave Kenya.