Kakamega Rainforest #2

Day 2 in the forest - A 5 hour hike to Yala River

Benjamin & the banonya
 

Our guide, Benjamin, has an amazing knowledge of the rainforest. He prepares us by describing some of the animals we will see, and assuring us that this is a safe rainforest. We had heard that a tourist was killed here last year - mauled by a baboon. Benjamin assures us that as long as we don't try and feed the baboons, they will leave us alone. There are also leopards in the rainforest, but Benjamin has never seen one, but he has seen evidence. He came across a baboon that had been torn apart and partly eaten. No other animal has the ability to bring down a large baboon.
Benjamin tells us that there are also many species of snakes in the forest. He explains that it is good to be able to identify snakes because, if one bites you, the medics will know what medicine to administer. This gives us no confidence about walking in the rainforest. However Benjamin also assures us that all the snakes are non-aggressive. They will retreat as soon as they sense your vibrations on the ground. If cornered most will give warnings before they strike. He tells the story of a researcher who sat on a chair and thought that the chair was creaking. He had sat on a cobra. It hissed for quite a while and he was able to leave his seat without being bitten.
Benjamin is middle aged, very fit and in love with the forest. He can name every bird by its call, and mimic the call. Then he tells you all about the birds features, foods and habitat. He can name all of the butterflies, which are numerous. For most living things within the forest he can give their scientific name - he has a very good memory. Also, he walked 20 kms (5.5 hrs) with no water or food.


There is secondary forest, some open grassland areas and also primary rainforest or jungle. We catch sight of the red tailed monkeys, but they are very shy. We also sight a white colobus monkey, again mostly hidden from view. There are many butterflies, including the red winged butterfly that is found nowhere else in the world but this rainforest.

After two hours or so we reach the river. The river is low but still fast-flowing. This is the dry season, it will rise next month when the large rains come. We stop at a wide area just past some rapids and the girls have a swim in the muddy, reasonably calm water. It is a sunny day, but we are shaded on the banks of the river. It is about 25 degrees and quite humid.

Benjamin tells us about the medicinal plants in the rainforest. Mondea vine is very useful to locals. The root is chewed and is considered to have the following benefits:
- improves appetite
- helps lactating women increase milk supply
- cures stomach aches
- increase blood flow
- improves memory
Mondea tonic is available in surrounding towns, and local farmers are being encouraged to plant it, then sell it for processing.


A number of taboos have developed around some of these medicinal plants. One such taboo was that the plant should be collected at midnight while naked. If this was not the case it would not be effective.
People now realise that these restrictions were introduced to ensure that only the very needy would bother collecting it i.e. it was a conservation measure. Kenyans go to bed early and are quite conservative with their bodies, so only the desperate would bother.
Many locals have a very good knowledge of the forest and its food and medicines. However, they do not like sharing their knowledge, preferring to keep it in the family.

Early missionaries thought it was tied up with witchcraft and banned all traditional medicines. Science is only now realising the medical importance of these plants.
One plant the banonya, is now being studied as a treatment for epilepsy.
Some vines of the mondea family exude a milky substance when cut. This is used on cuts and rashes, and is said to cure them quickly.
The satinwood tree has a bark that is used as a typhoid treatment. Chemists have discovered that the same properties are found in the new leaves, and so it is proposed to grow the tree on a plantation and trim the top like tea.
The prunus Africanus, related to the lemon, is a malaria treatment.

Deep in the forest we find the classic tall trees and clear undergrowth. These large trees are shallow-rooted, preferring to put all their energy into reaching towards he sunlight. Often a big storm will bring some down. Higher up in the forest are orchids, bromeliads and stag horns. Tarzan would not be comfortable in this jungle as we saw few lianas.
On the edge of the forest where the undergrowth is thicker we are again transported back to Australia. There is morning glory, lantana and guava trees.

We arrive back at bandas by 4:30pm. We all have a shower and enjoy a relax.
As dusk approaches a troop of 8 or so white tailed colobus monkeys take over the trees above the bandas. Their speed through the branches is amazing. At times they sit still, looking down as if to contemplate those strange beings pinned to terra firma. They are intelligent looking animals, with a furry black and white coat. Their tail is very long and used for balance. After a 30 minute photo op they are off to a more distant part of the forest.

We turn in early because tomorrow we are to do the sunrise walk.